Costume Designers Tell the Story

Posted on January 5, 2014 at 3:59 pm

great_gatsby_xlgI love behind the scenes glimpses of the unsung heroes of film-making like The Hollywood Reporter’s great look at five costume designers who worked on some of the biggest films of the year.  Costume designers do much more than create clothes that are pretty and historically accurate.  They play a key role in defining the characters and telling the story.  Catherine Martin talks about one of Gatsby’s suits.

“That suit is a character in itself,” she says. “Tom tries to undercut Gatsby’s position by implying that he’s nouveau riche and he mentions the pink suit disparagingly,” says Martin. “Brooks Brothers was actually making pink seersucker suits in the early ’20s.” She admits: “I don’t know whether Leo was that thrilled about having to wear a pink suit. But I think it’s an instrumental part of reflecting the intense romanticism that lives inside Gatsby’s heart.

Inside-Llewyn-Davis Isaac Timberlake DriverMary Zophres designed the costumes for the Coen Brothers’ “Inside Llewyn Davis,” where the lead character wears just one outfit throughout the film.  “His character is constantly living in someone else’s apartment, so I thought he should have a smaller bag and fewer clothes.”  Daniel Orlandi speaks about dressing Emma Thompson as the real-life P.L. Travers for “Saving Mr. Banks.”  Travers always wore silver bracelets, so he made sure Thompson did, too.  But he gave her a more demure dress for the premiere of “Mary Poppins” on screen than the real author wore.  Replicating the original dress, he says, would make the beautiful Thompson look too “hot.”  A real challenge was dressing not just all of the extras in early 60’s clothes for the scene set in Disneyland, but outfitting the Disney characters as well.

“At the last minute we had to re-create all of the 1961 Disney mascots and retain that original, handmade look,” says Orlandi. “Mickey looked a lot different back then!”

And in the New York Times’ special Oscars section, the costume designer for “The Butler,” Ruth E. Carter, explains how the clothes worn by the title character’s wife Gloria, played by Oprah Winfrey, tell the story of the film — and of the challenge of putting one of the most famous people in the world into a movie and making the audience believe her as a character.

Gloria wears a cream-color A-line skirt and blouse topped by a turquoise cardigan, her hair covered by a floral-print scarf, as she sends her oldest son, Louis (David Oyelowo), off to Fisk University in Nashville from a Greyhound bus stop. “We had a big argument,” Ms. Carter said. “I think Lee’s main thing was: ‘When Oprah gets here, we’ve got to break the Oprah mold. We’ve got to make her a character.’ He told me, ‘I don’t want her in anything bright, and I want her in curlers at the bus station.’ So Oprah and I argued with him, she more than I. We won, thank God. I guess she proved to him that she was committed, and she was going to be this character and present something other than herself, and it relaxed him. And he was like, ‘O.K., you can do a couple of bright things — maybe.’ ”

 

Related Tags:

 

Behind the Scenes

Want to Know What James Franco Thinks of “The Great Gatsby?”

Posted on May 17, 2013 at 8:00 am

I’m interested in James Franco’s take on “The Great Gatsby” because of what this polymath who attended two grad schools at once has to say about the challenges of adapting great writing to the screen and the differing goals and audience expectations of a book now viewed as a classic and a movie.

The critics who’ve ravaged the film for not being loyal to the book are hypocrites. These people make their living doing readings and critiques of texts in order to generate theories of varying levels of competency, or simply to make a living. Luhrmann’s film is his reading and adaptation of a text—his critique, if you will. Would anyone object to a production of Hamlet in outer space? Not as much as they object to the Gatsby adaptation, apparentlyMaybe that’s because Gatsby is so much about a time and a place, while Shakespeare, in my mind, is more about universal ideas, ideals, and feelings. Luhrmann needed to breathe life into the ephemera and aura of the 20s and that’s just what he succeeded at.

A film, of course, relies on an immediate tension in a fundamentally different way than a book. And barring the most cinematic of texts, films developed from literary sources must run along a tighter thread. Once Gatsby’s mission of wooing Daisy back is accomplished, some of the wind is taken out of the story. We don’t really care about their relationship as much as we care about Gatsby’s overblown efforts to rise in social and economic status to get her back. And this is a universal and rarely accomplished goal that is still relevant today, made even more so by the director’s use of modern window dressing. Gatsby’s desire is revealed to be that of a 16-year-old boy: not only does he want to win Daisy, he wants to control her affections. It reminds me of my high school relationships, where I tortured girlfriends for getting fingered by other boys when they were freshmen. Just move on, dude. We are obsessed by his obsession but aren’t significantly moved by his accomplishment of the goal.

Related Tags:

 

Actors Critics
The Great Gatsby

The Great Gatsby

Posted on May 9, 2013 at 6:00 pm

Kids, here’s a hint: Don’t think you can pass a sophomore English exam on F. Scott Fitzgerald’s jazz age classic and high school reading list perennial by watching this movie.  While this version of the story of a man who changes everything about his life so that he can win back the woman he loves hits the Cliff’s notes highlights, spending more time on the green light on the dock than Gatsby and on the eyeglass billboard than Nick Carraway, co-writer and director Baz Luhrmann misses the forest for the trees.   His trees are fun to look at, though.  

Copyright Village Roadshow 2012

It goes off the rails from the very first moment, when it turns out that narrator Nick Carraway (Tobey Maguire) is telling the story in a snow-covered sanitarium, presumably because the events he is about to disclose are so traumatic they have caused him to have a breakdown.  Or, perhaps this is Luhrmann’s way of eliding Carraway with Fitzgerald himself, though there is no indication that Fitzgerald wrote this book as therapy.

The more significant violation, though, comes from the mangling of the book’s famous opening lines.  Like the book, the movie begins with Carraway telling us that his father warned him not to judge people.  But it leaves out the most important part — the reason why. “In my younger and more vulnerable years my father gave me some advice that I’ve been turning over in my mind ever since. ‘Whenever you feel like criticizing anyone,’ he told me,‘just remember that all the people in this world haven’t had the advantages that you’ve had.’”  This is crucial for understanding the way Nick looks at Gatsby and his rival, Tom Buchanan.  But Luhrmann inexplicably does not think it is worth including.

Perhaps it is because he is so eager to get to what matters to him, the pageantry.  He is the genre/mash-up “Moulin Rouge” guy whose motto seems to be “more is still not enough, even with glitter on it.  And firecrackers.  And 3D.  And Jay-Z.”

The story takes place in 1922.  Nick is a WWI veteran who has literary tendencies but is working at a low-level job “in bonds” on Wall Street.  He is living in a small cottage in the Hamptons, next door to a vast mansion owned by a mysterious man named Jay Gatsby (Leonardo DiCaprio), who gives fabulously decadent parties but is seldom seen.   They are across the bay from the old-money side, where Nick’s cousin Daisy (Carey Mulligan) lives with her wealthy, upper class, polo-playing brute of a husband, Tom Buchanan (Joel Edgerton).  He is having an affair with Myrtle (Isla Fisher), the restless wife of the struggling owner of a garage.

It turns out that Daisy and Gatsby knew each other five years earlier, when he was in the military and before she was married to Tom.   But “rich girls don’t marry poor boys.”  Gatsby has changed everything to change himself into the man Daisy could have married.  He lives across from her home so he can look toward her (and the green light on her dock).  He hopes that his parties will lure her to his home.  When he discovers that his neighbor is her relation, he goes to great lengths to assure Nick that he is trustworthy and to persuade Nick to invite him to tea with Daisy, so he can see her again.  He is convinced that they can erase the past and go on together as though five years that included her marriage and child never happened.  Nick admires Gatsby for his ability to hope.  And in Lurhmann’s version, that is a quality that more than makes up for the compromises and selfishness of Gatsby’s single-minded quest.

Of course, thoughtful consideration of issues like those is not the purpose of this film.  It is a confetti gun of a movie, all sensation and senseless mash-up.  The party scenes and period details are gorgeous for the sake of gorgeousness, with no sense of perspective or irony.  Fitzgerald, who had a love-hate relationship with wealth and status, had some ambivalence in his descriptions of the characters luxuries, but in general Lurhmann’s portrayal of the negligent opulence of the old money Buchanans and gauche display of the new money Gatsby is somewhere between awe and envy.  The Jay-Z-produced soundtrack is not as anacronistically intrusive as one might fear, only because the sensory overload barely allows it to register.  But it is thin compared to the book.  Fitzgerald’s carefully chosen songs and the lyrics of the era that he included are far more evocative and illuminating as words on a page than all of the thump thump thumping  of the music we hear.

Luhrmann may be trying to make some point with the marginalization of African-American characters, relegated to playing music, dancing, and looking on at what the white folks are doing from tenements.  But it is distracting and unsettling to see them treated as just another set of props.   But then, the white characters are not much more than props, either, with a director more interested in posing them and moving the camera than in any kind of performance.  Daisy’s friend Jordan (Elizabeth Debicki), impossibly long and thin, is like a Giacometti sculpture towering above mere mortals.  DiCaprio has some affecting moments, but seems too old and too sleekly comfortable for the role.

After at least five unsuccessful attempts to make this novel into a movie, it may be time to declare it unfilmable.  There is no cinematic equivalent to Fitzgerald’s voice.  This is not “The Great Gatsby.”  It’s an often-visually pleasing kaleidoscopic music video with a 3D shower of shirts.

Parents should know that the movie features violence including murder, suicide, a fatal traffic accident, and domestic abuse, also drinking and drunkenness, pills, smoking, sexual situations that are explicit for a PG-13, and brief strong language including racist and anti-Semitic epithets.

Family discussion:  What do the green light and the billboard symbolize?  Why does Nick say that Gatsby is hopeful?

If you like this, try: the book by F. Scott Fitzgerald and compare this to the other versions, including the 1974 Robert Redford film, the Mira Sorvino miniseries, and the updated “G”

Related Tags:

 

3D Based on a book Drama Remake Romance

Listen to Jay-Z’s “The Great Gatsby” Soundtrack Free!

Posted on May 7, 2013 at 8:55 pm

  1. 100$ Bill – Jay-Z
  2. Back To Black – Beyoncé, André 3000
  3. Young And Beautiful – Lana Del Rey
  4. Love Is Blindness – Jack White
  5. Crazy In Love (Kid Koala Version) – Emeli Sandé, The Bryan Ferry Orchestra
  6. Bang Bang – will.i.am
  7. “I Like Large Parties” – Elizabeth Debicki
  8. A Little Party Never Killed Nobody (All We Got) – Fergie, Q-Tip, GoonRock
  9. Love Is The Drug – Bryan Ferry, The Bryan Ferry Orchestra
  10. “Can’t Repeat The Past?” – Leonardo Dicaprio, Tobey Maguire
  11. Hearts A Mess – Gotye
  12. Where The Wind Blows – Coco O.
  13. Green Light – Green Light
  14. No Church In The Wild – Jay-Z, Kanye West
  15. Over The Love – Florence + The Machine
  16. Together – The xx
  17. Into The Past – Nero
  18. Kill And Run – Sia
  19. Over The Love (Of You) – Florence + The Machine, SBTRKT
  20. Young And Beautiful (DH Orchestral Version) – Lana Del Rey
  21. “Gatsby Believed In The Green Light” – Tobey Maguire, Craig Armstrong

Related Tags:

 

Music

Gatsby on Film

Posted on May 6, 2013 at 3:53 pm

robert-redford-great-gatsby-090110-xlg

In honor of this week’s release of the lastest movie version of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s jazz age novel, The Great Gatsby, revisit the book and take a look at four earlier versions:

The Great Gatsby (1949) Alan Ladd and Betty Field star in the earliest surviving version of the story, heavy-handed and missing the lyricism of the book.  (A 1926 film with Warner Baxter has been lost.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2jh6XkjrHU

The Great Gatsby (1974) Robert Redford and Mia Farrow star in this sumptuous version that is rather static but better than its reputation.

The Great Gatsby (2000) A TV version starred Mira Sorvino, Paul Rudd, and Toby Stephens and preserves more of the narration from the novel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgDQ_aN19NU

gG. Audacious, ambitious, and provocative but uneven and ultimately unsatisfying, this film adapts and updates the story. Instead of Jay Gatsby, the Prohibition-era gangster who can’t forget the girl he lost, we have Summer G, the gangsta, the head of a successful hip-hop recording label.

You might also want to take a look at the only movie credited to Fitzgerald during his brief, unhappy stint in Hollywood:

Three Comrades A tragic love set story in post-WWI Germany starring Robert Young and Margaret Sullavan.

Or watch one of the movie portrayals of Fitzgerald:

Beloved Infidel Gregory Peck plays Fitzgerald in this movie based on the memoir of gossip columnist Sheilah Graham about their years together.

Midnight in Paris Tom Hiddleston and Alison Pill play Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald in Woody Allen’s romantic comedy about a contemporary writer who goes back in time to meet his literary heroes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzoOA473wq0

Mrs. Parker and the Vicious Circle Malcolm Gets plays Fitzgerald in this movie about the New York writers who gathered at the Algonquin hotel for cocktails and repartee.

Related Tags:

 

Books Original Version
THE MOVIE MOM® is a registered trademark of Nell Minow. Use of the mark without express consent from Nell Minow constitutes trademark infringement and unfair competition in violation of federal and state laws. All material © Nell Minow 1995-2024, all rights reserved, and no use or republication is permitted without explicit permission. This site hosts Nell Minow’s Movie Mom® archive, with material that originally appeared on Yahoo! Movies, Beliefnet, and other sources. Much of her new material can be found at Rogerebert.com, Huffington Post, and WheretoWatch. Her books include The Movie Mom’s Guide to Family Movies and 101 Must-See Movie Moments, and she can be heard each week on radio stations across the country.

Website Designed by Max LaZebnik